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Fashion Week 2008 American Express
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Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Charmed Lives
Published: Tuesday, February 19, 2008
(Page 2 of 2)
Mulberry: Mulberry's girl embraced her kooky side in a bright, breezy presentation that showcased the talents of Stuart Vevers and the brand's new footwear designer, Jonathan Kelsey. The ready-to-wear collection was eye-poppingly bright, with vast, shaggy, lipstick-red Tibetan lambskin coats; lemon yellow minidresses, and rhubarb-toned, fake fur bomber jackets. Shrunken, charcoal-colored cashmere cardigans worn over bright minidresses offered an essential bit of contrast. Bags came in a rainbow of shades, too: There were tangerine patent clutches, royal blue ponyskin shoulder bags and oversize lizard holdalls in raspberry and bright blue. There was some bold footwear from Kelsey, including flat, lace-up shoes in fuchsia suede and sexy knee-high riding boots.

Allegra Hicks: This dark, romantic — and ultraglamorous — collection was heavy on velvet, fur and earthy tones of eggplant, chocolate and charcoal. There were thigh-length evening jackets fashioned from alternating strips of fur and metallic fabric; knee-length dresses with cutout shoulders and pleated fronts, and floaty maxidresses cinched with wide gold corset belts. Even Allegra Hicks' staples — such as jersey day dresses and coats — had a sexy edge, with details such as ultralow necklines, draped bell sleeves or metallic flourishes.

Unconditional: Philip Stephens' fall collection was inspired by the bored aristos of "Gosford Park," right down to its props, which included dusty library books and a live Chihuahua that various models cradled during the show. Stephens' palette was mostly black and gray, punctuated by a variety of reds. As for the silhouettes, the designer kept them simple, and the result was such relaxed, elegant looks as bias-cut burnt red silk slips, pleated silk skirts worn with wraparound silk blouses and billowing terra-cotta silk day dresses with smocking across the front.