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Friday, May 02, 2008
Superheroes, Super Designs
Published: Friday, May 02, 2008
(Page 2 of 2)
Organized in vignettes under such themes as “The Graphic Body,” “The Patriotic Body,” “The Virile Body,” and “The Paradoxical Body,” the show intersperses actual superheroes and the meanings of their costumes with fashion designs of similar natures. For instance, “The Graphic Body” showcases a group of Superman-like costumes, including a Bernhard Willhelm dress and Moschino T-shirts that reinterpret the “S” chevron logo as a heart and the letter M. “We look at the idea of the branded body, and how the superhero is basically a branded body,” Bolton said.

Adjacent is a Clark Kent figure reflected in glass, which darkens to unveil a Superman character using a Pepper’s ghost technique. Nearby is a vignette dedicated to Spider-Man, with weblike dresses by Jean Paul Gaultier, Julien Macdonald and John Galliano. A group of Hulk-related garments, meanwhile, “look at the Hulk as a metaphor for male potency and adolescent metamorphosis,” Bolton said. They include a bright yellow Walter van Beirendonck jacket that is inflatable to resemble a ribbed torso.

No show would be complete without takes on the fetishism of Catwoman — featuring a Dolce & Gabbana black corset dress or a Thierry Mugler PVC catsuit — or Wonder Woman, who gave the curator a chance to play with designs featuring stars and stripes. Not surprisingly, Mugler seems to be frequently featured throughout the show, from his insect dresses to his armor-like suits, his motorcycle bustier with handlebars and side view mirrors, and an extravagant gown bringing together the head of a bird with an amphibian body and a fishlike scale bottom.

Giorgio Armani is underwriting the exhibit, which runs through Sept. 1, with additional support from Condé Nast. The show will kick off Monday with the Costume Institute gala benefit, featuring Armani as honorary chair and co-chairs George Clooney, Julia Roberts and Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour.
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Designs echoing Spider-Man's web by, from left, John Galliano, Giorgio Armani,