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Tuesday, February 06, 2007
Dress Rehearsal
Published: Tuesday, February 06, 2007
(Page 2 of 3)
Ohne Titel: Blink and you might have missed the off-calendar debut presentation of Alexa Adams and Flora Gill's Ohne Titel, which would have been a shame because the designers, both Karl Lagerfeld alums, worked a superslick sportswear vision — silicone-dipped wool jersey dresses and streamlined tailoring — that would have done their former employer proud.

Naeem Khan: With "Dreamgirls" as his inspiration, Naeem Khan went for unapologetic glitz, emblazoning his much-improved fall collection with shine, shine, shine on understated shapes like T-shirt minis and fluid, silk gowns.

Hollywould: Holly Dunlap's eclectic inspirations ranged from a hunt in Scotland to the Seventies women's liberation movement, and her Hollywould dress collection was equally all over the place, but her sparkling knit jersey numbers were right on track.

Sari Gueron: At Sari Gueron, structured ease was the name of the game, as hooded herringbone coatdresses mingled effortlessly with cashmere knits and embroidered skirts.

United Bamboo: At United Bamboo, Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham showed a multifaceted collection of utilitarian dresses and coats featuring textured fabrics and origami pleats, but at times the weighty materials overpowered the design.

Benjamin Cho: Benjamin Cho delivered a welcome dose of joyful whimsy with his ladylike sheaths featuring larger-than-life button and jewel accents and one charmingly witty, surrealist-inspired knit.

Issa London: With a range of dresses — from boldly printed wraps to glitzy, funky numbers — Daniella Helayel's flirtatious Issa London collection will likely be a hit among the young and the restless.

Edun: A dinner theater-style performance by The Citizens Band couldn't have been better, and the clothes the band members road tested — Rogan Gregory and Ali Hewson's all-black lineup of slip dresses and distressed knits — were appealing, too.

Katy Rodriguez: The old-world charm and rich color palette of the Gramercy Park Hotel provided the perfect backdrop for the informal presentation of Katy Rodriguez's voluminous jewel-toned silk taffeta dresses.

Adept: At Adept, Joshua Hupper and Miyako Nakamura presented fluid dresses and sculptural jackets in metallics and iridescent silk chiffons, pushing their futuristic angle in the right direction.