"Limited editions are still going great," said Wunderman of Corum. "But it's true that it's gotten to the point that it's almost ridiculous. There are limited edition Tissots."

Celebrity tie-ins are another continuing phenomenon. Christian Dior, for example, has signed Sharon Stone to appear in advertising for its timepieces. The stunning Russian soprano Anna Netrebko is the new face of Chopard.

Jewelry was another important component at the shows, though most American retailers said it was watches that bring them to Switzerland.

Retailers said rose gold, large chain links, cameos, ancient coins and a return to "beautiful classic things" were the main themes.

Standout collections came from Roberto Coin, David Yurman, Mikimoto and de Grisogono, which presented a multimillion dollar 45-carat ruby ring.

David Yurman reported a strong start to the year, saying he expected 2007 to yield double-digit gains again. Among the house's novelties were watches designed by Yurman's son, Evan. Yurman showcased pieces with mineral stones, such as malachite, adding color to his collection.

Roberto Coin said "business is very good" thanks to sales in Russia, the United Arab Emirates and the U.S. Coin used gemstones like citrine to give his rose and yellow gold mesh pieces a touch of verve.