At Ultimo in Chicago, shoppers are searching for daytime dresses. "Absolutely — people want that perfect colored dress instead of skirts or shorts and a shirt," said owner Sara Albrecht.

"It's nice. People for the first time want to wear a dress — and not just a black dress. They're looking for brights, prints and colors," Albrecht said. "A dress is actually the perfect outfit. For a long time, wearing a dress meant you were a woman. Now you can wear a dress and still be a good employee, a good chief executive officer or whatever. You don't have to dress like a man."

The Milan label Gio Guerreri is a winner "for the perfect easy dress," Albrecht said. Charles Chang Lima and Stella McCartney are also in demand at Ultimo, she said. Many women are buying styles in the $600 or $700 price range, but the retailer also sells looks for $200 and $3,000.

"Designers don't make great dresses all the time," Albrecht said. "I'm pleased because I'm a dress person. It's a trend that should carry into fall, which is nice, as well."

Regardless of price or end use, the short, simple dress is the hit of the season at Holt Renfrew, said fashion director Barbara Atkin. Contemporary daytime dresses are strong as well as short, knee-baring dresses in all categories including designer and cocktail numbers, she said. "Short gala styles are flying off the racks as soon as they are put on them," said Atkin.

More women can wear dresses due in part to the importance of the legging as a layering piece, she said. They also can be dressed up or dressed down. In addition, tunics and T-shirt, geometric Mod and kimono styles are most forgiving and can hide a multitude of figure faults.

Shoppers' favorite looks at Holt Renfrew include Phillip Lim's $575 white rosette T-shirt dress; Helmut Lang's $200 gray simple shift with geometrical pockets; $375 printed dresses from Julie Brown, Nanette Lepore, Vena Cava and Milly, and a Diane von Furstenberg vintage dress, also for $375. In terms of the designer arena, a Marni sleeveless sack dress at $895, a Chloé long-sleeve silk dress at $2,295 and Etro printed jersey dresses retailing from $725 to $895 have been popular.