Winser sees Aquascutum as a "truly sartorial brand," and believes that fabric is its key point of difference in the market. Indeed, 95 percent of the fabrics in the collections are exclusive to the brand. Herz and Fidler have updated the company's patented Aqua 5 fabric, a waterproof fabric first launched in 1959. Some of the Aquascutum Vintage designs are made from Aqua 5. The designers have seam-sealed coat and suiting fabrics, which means even the cashmere overcoats will be as airtight as yachting wear. They've also developed Aquamacs, which are full-sized, belted trenches that fold into a pocket-sized pouch.

"Fabric innovation is at the heart of Aquascutum," said Winser.

She said the hurdles in her new job are completely different from the old ones at Pringle. "There, we were building the foundations of a business. Aquascutum is already built. It's now about developing the product and getting the right people in place."