However, most of the square footage is devoted to individual designer collections. Key ones displayed prominently are Christian Louboutin, Prada, Chanel, Jimmy Choo, Miu Miu and Giuseppe Zanotti. Prices range from a $210 Stewart Weitzman shoe to a $3,200 Chanel boot. For the 10022-SHOE launch, Saks added nine brands to the mix, including Azzedine Alaïa, Brian Atwood and Jonathan Kelsey.

Aside from seeking to dominate designer shoes, there was another objective — to get customers to check out each other's selection, so the seating, which was increased by more than 50 percent, is arranged around large tables. "The arrangement is meant for customers to interact with each other," Herbst said. "It's put together more like a living room, and it's very movable."

The decor is muted, mostly gray and beige, to help the product stand out, though there are little splashes of color on some of the furnishings. Most of the shoes are displayed on tables, more so than along the walls, where they would be harder to see, but the shelves are all eye-level and protrude out to help see the products. The Saks team worked with Hambrecht Oleson Design Associates on the floor design.

Saks executives say they won't be disadvantaged by relocating a hot-selling category high up in the store, and note they've created an express elevator direct to eight. That's just one of several service initiatives. Among the others:

- Sales staff has grown to 92 from 44 employees; stock staff has increased from 12 to 29.

- Telephone operators can page sales associates when customers call.

- There are 12 point-of-sale stations concealed from the selling floor.

- On-site shoe repair.

- A VIP private wardrobing room.

- A newly-renovated Roger Vivier shop moving up from the third floor. The restaurant on eight is also being renovated.

The new Saks floor follows the renovation and expansion of shoe departments at stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Bloomingdale's, where Saks' Frasch sold shoes 30 years ago.

"I was an assistant buyer, but back then part of your job was to sell shoes," he recalled. "It's a very physical job. You have to constantly bring out complementary pairs in case you don't have the size in the style the customer wants. Then you're on your knees, crouching over, putting the shoes on them."