He also said the quality of the venue confirmed "the importance of culture, art and excellence" for the maison. The late designer started showing in his headquarters in October 1998. The Fondazione will be able to accommodate the 1,000 guests expected, said the spokesman.

While Anna Molinari, designed by Rossella Tarabini, was forced to find a slot off the official calendar on Wednesday, Sept. 26. Blumarine, designed by Tarabini's mother, Anna Molinari, will show on Tuesday, Sept. 25, preceded by Sportmax and followed by La Perla, Missoni, Bottega Veneta and Moschino, Etro, Iceberg, Pollini and Prada.

Roberto Cavalli, Salvatore Ferragamo, Emporio Armani, Gucci and Brioni likely will show on Wednesday, followed by Alberta Ferretti, who also will host a dinner for almost 200 people. "There is no particular reason — no anniversary or special occasion — simply a desire to liven up Milan and entertain our guests," said a company spokeswoman.

Marni, Dolce & Gabbana and D&G are also not on the official calendar. The first, wanting a morning slot outside the fairground, opted for two shows on Wednesday, Sept. 26. Dolce & Gabbana will show on Thursday, Sept. 27. Although a comment from the designers was not available at press time, Boselli attributed their decision to an "old controversy" with the Chamber of Fashion, which earlier this year voiced its displeasure with the brand's advertising campaign for spring and its aggressive image against women.

Also on Thursday, MaxMara, Les Copains, Pucci, Fendi and Jil Sander also are slated to show, with Versace holding 8 p.m. and 9 p.m. shows at its new theater.

"The only thing we can do is to change the structure of fashion week, which in 2009 will run from Wednesday to Wednesday, with a strong weekend in the middle," said Boselli. "Designers should really try to do the right thing to help out the system," he added.

Among the new entries next month, Victor Victoria will make a comeback under new owners, and New York footwear and accessories brand Stuart Weitzman is expected to hold a presentation in Milan. Also coming up, Martin Margiela will open its first boutique in the city's central Via Spiga, close to the renovated Blumarine boutique, also slated to reopen during the shows.