MaxAzria: Max and Lubov Azria channeled the boudoir for their sensually silky collection of lingerie-inspired looks. But these are not for sleepy-time gals. Using a dreamy palette of pale pinks and cloudy grays, the Azrias created ethereal shapes for a confident woman who can dance the night away in pretty little satin under-things-as-outer-things. Weightless slipdresses were pieced together with intricate paneling and pleated and textured insets, creating a subtle color-blocked effect. The designers also played with ombré silks, using the shaded effect at the hems of miniskirts or to emphasize the sleeves of belted overblouses. It was all pretty and romantic, though some of those shimmering dresses had a hint of Miu Miu past.

Behnaz Sarafpour: After last season's detour into dark, Gothic territory, Behnaz Sarafpour took a fresh and natural approach to spring, literally. She defied the styleless-eco-fashion stigma with her first five looks that included pieces from her debut capsule organic collection. They featured all-natural fabrics embellished with turquoise and malachite embroideries, and a jungle print dyed au naturel, using crushed insects and marigolds for pigment. The "green" looks — a pleated A-line skirt and waffle-weave wrap dress, in particular — were just as chic as the rest of the lineup. The nature theme continued throughout with polished rattan jackets and pretty green and white ombré tank dresses that were all about clean lines and zero crunch factor.

Ports 1961: A little subtlety would have done wonders for Tia Cibani's safari-themed collection. Her African inspiration came on strong — like too much cologne — from the styling (one head wrap too many) to the cutesy run-of-show names (Masai gingham, anyone?). The prettiest looks, like a lace brocade coat and effortless silk ombré dresses, were lost in an onslaught of extreme draping and twisting. And while petal embellishments made from the fingertips of surgical gloves were eco-witty, there's such a thing as too many tricks up one's sleeve.

Liz Claiborne: The first Liz Claiborne collection under the guidance of chief creative officer Tim Gunn honored the megabrand's founding principles and the late Claiborne herself. The design team certainly considered its customer: the working woman who wants to dress her age without feeling uptight or matronly. Thus, there were great basics — feminine cardigans, tailored pants and shift dresses in various volumes. Graphic prints and bold yellows and greens added oomph to the otherwise understated palette, and a cool factor was achieved with patent-leather jackets and a great slate trench in a techy nylon.