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Thursday, September 13, 2007
Retailers Charmed by Color in N.Y.
Published: Thursday, September 13, 2007
(Page 3 of 6)
Dislikes: I didn't like waiting for shows. It shows disrespect not to start the shows almost on time.

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus

What's new?: The message I'm most excited about is that we're seeing more shape in fashion. The dress is moving closer to the body and the long length for day is looking really new.

Favorite collections: I was charmed by Oscar de la Renta. He had all the right notes of the season, such as multicultural references and ikat prints. I loved Vera Wang's subtle draping and twisting of fabrics. Marchesa sent out one beautiful gown after another and the girls at Rodarte had a beautiful collection that was much more rooted in the reality of a woman's wardrobe. Michael Kors had a great show and Phillip Lim truly understands how women want to dress. Thakoon hit all the right notes with blue ikats and a wood floral print. Doo.Ri did a beautiful job with jersey and beautiful feminine pieces that looked like they were inspired by underpinnings.

Young designers: I loved Chris Benz's presentation and use of color. I can't tell you if we're picking him up yet. I was very enchanted by Jeremy Laing, he's someone I'm going to be paying attention to, as well.

Marc meter: I'm a Marc fan, controversial chaos aside. His show was a gold mine of ideas that we'll see for years to come. It was one of those fashion moments. At the end of the day — and it literally was the end of the day — I was happy that I was there. I was exhilarated by what I saw on the runway.

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York

Rate the week: The main trend is that anything goes. There's something for everyone. The dress going from short to long will be the news for spring daytime dressing. I love the new A-line full shorter skirt and the white shirtdress. Great colors and beautiful prints will help drive spring sales.