But the fact that Yamamoto and SINV decided not to use the designer's name on the Coming Soon label suggests that it is creative content, and not only the status factor of a label, that is driving the second-line business today. "We believe that the design should be more than enough," Braglia said.

Yamamoto's first Coming Soon collection, with some 350 references and an emphasis on jeans and knitwear, will be unveiled to the trade in January during men's fashion week in Milan.

"It should be quite an affordable line. It's young and contemporary," Braglia said. "I think a line like this could have a really great potential."

In an interview, Keizo Tamoto, Yamamoto's executive vice president and ceo, said Coming Soon is targeted at young consumers looking to trade up from streetwear to "something with a little bit of elegance, a more simple way of dressing."

Tamoto allowed that Yamamoto's signature collection, mostly tailored, is often so singular that, "if you buy a Yohji jacket, you need Yohji pants and maybe you need also a Yohji shirt and shoes. It's a very dangerous line." By contrast, Coming Soon is described as a mix-and-match collection of easy-to-wear styles, from blouson jackets to T-shirts and accessories.

The partners said the new line could be sold in as many as 800 doors in Europe, mostly independent specialty stores, which compares with about 250 for Y's, Yamamoto's main sportswear collection. In America, Braglia is gunning for about 100 select department stores and specialty retailers over three years. Yohji Yamamoto Inc. will handle Japanese distribution.

Prices have yet to be finalized, but Tamoto said most jeans would retail from 150 euros, or $207, to 230 euros, or $317, with knitwear averaging from 120 euros, or $165.60, to 200 euros, or $276. T-shirts will start at about 70 euros, or $96.60.

Over the past five years, Yamamoto has been broadening the reach of his brand with new apparel lines and product categories, including his Y-3 sportswear collection with Adidas, his luggage and accessories line with Mandarina Duck and his fine jewelry with Mikimoto.

Yamamoto also has been expanding his retail network, with his largest store in the world slated to open later this month in Antwerp, Belgium, showcasing his signature line, the Y's range, fine jewelry and Limi Feu, the collection of his daughter, who is showing her spring collection during Paris Fashion Week. Next up is a unit on Gansevoort Street in New York's Meatpacking District, slated to open in January, followed by a three-level unit on Rue Cambon in Paris in March.