Polet said it's that combination of creativity, merchandising and product development that makes a brand tick and ensures an outcome of "relevant, desirable products." He said respect between all the players is essential, especially since there is "a field of natural tension" between creative and business types. "The thing to do then is to let them be entrepreneurial in those roles. It's so different if you really feel you have the trust of someone else to let you do your job."

Alber Elbaz, designer of Lanvin

"This is like asking a child, 'Who do you love more? Daddy or mommy?' You need them both and love them both in a different way. The role of the ceo and the designer is like a mother and a father; only when parents love and support each other will their child be strong and healthy and wealthy.

"Some of the best ceo's whom I've met through my career were the ones who think like artists and true innovators. And some of the best designers are the ones who think like ceo's. It's not about territorial power play, but more about collaborating and respecting each other's responsibilities."

In Elbaz's view, it's impossible for a brand to be great, without strong fashion and business leaders. "You need both a great designer and a great ceo to dream together in order to make this dream come true."

Oscar de la Renta

"[It's] the perfect combination of the two: the designer for his creativity and the ceo for his vision."

Ralph Toledano, chairman and ceo, Chloé

"I always say the most important thing is finding the right couple. The secret of success is the quality of the relationship. You cannot grow without a good designer and you cannot grow without a good ceo. When I hire people, I always say I'm looking for a partner. Credit is often given to management, but formula is very dangerous because it kills creativity. Management has to understand that they have to stimulate newness. A brand needs a talented designer. It needs constant change. Opportunism and formula kills a brand."